前途: A Year in Morocco

One of my favorite things about Morocco is how money works. It seems simple enough: Moroccan dirhams (or “dee’s” as we like to call them) come in .10, .20, .50, 1, 2, 5, 10 dirham coins and 20, 50, 100, and 200 dirham bills. Small stores and taxis frequently round the centimes (.10, .20, .50) up or down, depending usually on the guy’s mood and/or how Moroccan you seem. The conversion rate is about 8 dirhams to one dollar.

Moroccans generally use riyals and francs to talk about money.

Neither unit physically exists; it’s like counting in imaginary money!

Thanks to the Fulbright Morocco manual, I had advance warning about all this business.

Riyals are the most common imaginary money. You divide riyals by 20 to get to dirhams. Unless you’re in the north of Morocco, where they speak Spanish instead of French and divide by 2. I have yet to figure out how francs work, and I find it all quite hilarious and fantastic.

Anyway, the point is, if you turn to the merchant hawking panties for 60, but he’s speaking in riyals and you pull out 60 dirhams, he may just smile and nod and wrap your purchase. Ila bghiti. 60 riyals actually=3 dirhams. But 60 dirhams also=about 7 dollars, and that’s not a terribly outrageous price in the US. So my advice to tourists/travelers is to ask for clarification if you’re not sure (or watch closely to see what Moroccans are paying).

Side note: I can’t help feeling like a balla carrying around a wad of 100 and 200 dirham bills. Although I really only do it when I have to pay rent.

Good times in the Maghreb.